Aconcagua Summit Attempt (6 972 m) - 18 Jan 2012

The weather forecast had been good for a summit attempt today, so we were woken just after 3am to start preparing our kit. At this altitude even simple tasks like putting on your boots is exhausting and leaves you out of breath. Jay and I ate some oats porridge and tried to drink as much fluids as we could, as we were worried that we had not brought adequate number of insulated water bottles for the summit attempt. Later, we were to realize what a big mistake this was.
We were not quite sure what kit to wear, because everyone perceives the cold differently. I eventually decided to go the safe route and wear a really warm combination of clothing, including down jacket, thermal underwear and windbreaker over pants. This turned out to be fine for the start of the climb, before sunrise, but later I was found it difficult to control my temperature and was far too hot.
By 5:30am there was a long line of lights heading up the ice slopes from our camp. Phokwane and Bob decided that they had achieved enough and remained in the high camp. The rest of us nine SA team members, and the two local guides, fitted our crampons and joined the line of lights. Our aim was to reach the summit in 8 hours and return in 4 hours, so we were expecting to get back into camp by 5:30pm. In the end, as the events unfolded, the last of us were only to get back into camp at 9:30pm.
None of us had fully prepared our body and minds for today’s task. A thick layer of snow had made conditions difficult, slow and energy sapping. But we couldn't turn back, because you must take the opportunity of the good weather.
The crampons worked really well, and gave us good grip until we hit the steeper sections which required a special technique. This section was very frustrating for me and I fell several times, on one occasion my right ice boot came off and nearly slid down the slope. Carlos and Sibu did their best to give me on the spot training, which did help, but already I was quite tired.
All the team members that set out managed to climb to 6 400 m with the most difficult sections still awaiting us near the summit. This news was shattering, as we had already been climbing continuously for hours and thought we were much further.
There was an opportunity to turn back at this point as there was another guide from the same tour company that would take any members of our team down. Frank and Phil decided to go for this option. From what I heard, Phil's camera battery had died and this added to his motivation. I had an important mission to complete, which could save lives (blood and bone marrow donors), that I wanted to give it a go and press on towards the summit and see how high I could go!!
The reality is that I was already tired and had nearly finished all my water. Frank kindly gave me a litre of his water, so that would help.
As we pressed on there was an exposed traverse section that you had to cross, where the wind showed us no mercy and left us freezing cold. Once we had passed that bit, it was back to steep, snow covered slopes, for which I had little experience and I could only manage slow progress.
The rest of the team seemed to be coping better and had managed to get to our lunch rest point in an exposed cave at 6 700 m. It was now already 1:30pm. Our guide explained that we should leave our packs here and travel light as the route to the summit (the remaining 262 m) and back will be difficult and could take 3 hours. I looked at the steep ice slope leading up to the summit and realized that I didn't have enough energy to tackle it safely and I only had one litre of water left. But at this altitude every decision can literally be life and death. But still, I couldn't believe that I had got this far only to be beaten at the last hurdle! Then I felt a moment of incredible pride that I had climbed 850 m higher than my previous record, and under difficult conditions. This had been a great personal achievement and will go a long way towards inspiring other cancer survivors to Never Lose Your Dream!!!
Jayson was also not in good shape but he had been able to keep up the pace and wanted to carry on. We had previously agreed that if one of us could reach the summit then they should carry on. So, although I had carried the Sunflower Fund / SANBS banner and Chris Corlett's photo from 2 600 m up to 6 700 m, it will be up to Jayson to carry it the remaining vital 262 m. This was a proud moment for me, handing over the banner and photo to Jayson, at only 15 years age, to complete the mission. I wanted to cry with pride but at the same time I was very concerned that he will be alright.
It would be a 5 hours wait before Jayson and the rest of the team returned to the meeting point, where I had been waiting. During that time I had seen about 5 climbers being rescued who had pushed beyond their limits or the altitude had caught up with them.
I gave Jayson a great big hug when he emerged from the steep Canaleta ice slope. The tired faces of the team told the story of what they had all endured to reach the summit 262 m above. In all, 6 members of our SA team reached the summit that afternoon. Congratulations to Sibu, Henk, Johan, Jayson, Rodney and Mike. You guys are awesome!!! They proudly flew the Sunflower Fund / SANBS banner together with Henk's Round Table banner (that also supports the Sunflower Fund). Hooray!!!
Thanks Jayson for taking Chris Corlett's photo to the summit and leaving it neatly under two rocks!!
Jayson also took his school flag to the highest point in South America.
Of course, reaching the summit is only the half way point and the team still needed to get off the mountain before it gets dark or before the weather turns. It was now 6:30pm and our team was the only team left high on the mountain. Between us, we didn't have any water left, so we were heavily dehydrated. Rod and Jayson were suffering from leg muscle cramps, so it was going to be a long trip down. We followed the same route down the steep ice slopes, and it took a lot of encouragement to get everyone down safely. Sibu kept telling Jayson that he could not stop, because it was getting colder and visibility had been reduced to 20 m as the clouds had closed in. We eventually all got back to camp at 9:30pm after an 18 hour ordeal to conquer the summit.
It was a magical day that each team member will remember for a long time. The views from the top were stunning, as we were looking down on all the surrounding mountain peaks. I'm sure there will be many photos that we will bring back to share with all.
And thanks to Jayson for completing the mission, and I also look forward to reading Jayson's story as he conquered the last 262 m to the summit. Sibu described him as a Lion. Johan says he was amazed at his achievement.
Tomorrow morning we will pack up the high camp and head down to base camp where, hopefully, we can have a hot shower and get a good meal. And, most importantly, make a Satellite phone call to home, as I'm sure Lynne is freaking out by now.